Tuesday, July 8, 2014

The Final Beauty of New York

New York, New York thank you for a wonderful 3 and half years. You opened yourself to us, you were energetic, welcoming and transparent. Your culture, theatre, restaurants and retail therapy allowed us to be fulfilled in everyway. We made close friends, we enjoyed great variety of food, art and theatre. We learnt that there is an easy independence available to us when there is no need to be judgemental, rather appreciate that there is something worthy in all that we see, all that we experience and all that we hear.
Thank you New York we are far greater for our experience and we will use our new attributes to enjoy everything the rest of the world has to offer.

Here are some lasting memories.


                                                        Central Park in bloom


                                                        Central Park in flower


                                                         Central Park Blossom


                                                  Empire State Building from Apt 52A


                                          Brooklyn Bridge and Manhattan from Brooklyn


                                                  9th and 10th Avenue from Apt 52A

       
                                        New York Good Night and Good bye from Apt 52A

SouthWest USA - Part 8 Santa Fe

Thursday 1st May until Saturday 3rd May  saw us in Santa Fe. Take the High Road to Taos, from Taos to Santa Fe, it has great scenery. We were back to a biggish city. We stayed in the old part of the city at Hotel St Francis, great location and pretty good hotel. 
This town is full of fantastic art, culture and atmosphere. 

                                  
                                                                    Typical Santa Fe

We covered the Loretta Chapel with the unsupported staircase and the San  Miguel mission, the oldest church in Santa Fe.
                                                                       


                                                          The Bell Tower of the San Miguel Mission


 We spent time at the Georgia O'Keefe museum and  Andrew Smith  Gallery where there was an Ansel Adams exhibition. These two galleries were extraordinary and really lay the foundation for the "Arts" of Santa Fe. We wandered  the streets and embraced the Plaza, Santa Fe is a wonderful little town. On the first evening we had an early dinner at Rio Chama and then back to San Miguel Mission to listen to  Anna Maria, a classical and flamingo guitarist and singer and a fanatical supporter of Santa Fe. A great afternoon and evening. 

Next day, breakfast at Cafe Pasqual's a Santa Fe must. We then wandered to Canyon Road,  "The" art gallery road. There was an enormous number of galleries, probably too many. A significant variation of art and sculptures. Back into town and we visited a few more photographic galleries. Am amazing amount of great works. Early drinks in the plaza then Dinner at El Masen.

                                                            Typical art along Canyon Road


Last day on tour we had breakfast at oldest cafe in Santa Fe and then visited an Art Fair by Santa Fe Society of Artists. It was great. 
This trip has been fantastic in many ways. The scenery has been enormous, spectacular, warm, red, threatening and friendly. The people, the food, the accommodation and towns have made us welcome and given us wonderful experiences. SouthWest USA is a must for anyone. 

The only experience greater that SouthWest USA was to be able to do this trip with Arthur and Maz. We are blessed to have great friends. 

Then back to NYC. 
A wonderful trip. 

Monday, July 7, 2014

SouthWest USA - Part 7 Taos

Tuesday 29th May and Wednesday 30th May we drove to Taos and spent two nights at The Old Taos Guesthouse, a must for anyone going to Taos. Bob and Katie are great hosts.




                                                              The Old Taos Guesthouse

             
                                              Some Young Indian Squaws doing what comes naturally

Our drive to Taos encounted the spectacular Kit Carson Nature Reserve, plenty of snow, The Earthship Reservation, a housing development with all houses made of natural resources, and the imposing Rio Grande Bridge.


                                                              The Earthship Reservation

Innovative and off the grid, Earthships are self sustaining, environmentally savvy houses built with recycled materials like used automobile tires and cans. The idea was to develop a building method that eliminates stress from both the planet and its inhabitants. Buried on three sides by earth, the Earthships are designed to heat and cool themselves, make their own electricity and catch their own water. Sewage is decomposed naturally and dwellers grow their own food.

                                                            Rio Grande Gorge Bridge

The gorge bridge is the second highest suspension bridge in the USA. Constructed in 1965, the vertigo inducing steel bridge spans 500ft across the gorge and 650ft above the river.  


Taos is a wonderful little New Mexican town, with plenty of history and art. Kit Carson, legendary mountain man, soldier, and Indian enemy turned Indian advocate was the first of a long line of celebrities to settle in Taos. His name is found everywhere. In particular the Kit Carson museum created a wonderful western feel to the town.
                           
                                                                    A Western Feel                                                            

Today Taos is home to more than 80 galleries, and about 30% of people call themselves artists. Taos remains a relaxed and eccentric place with classic mud brick buildings, quirky cafes and excellent restaurants. If you want some great choices for dinner try El Meze and Love Apple. It was at Love Apple that Maz won a Gold Medal for dinning. Maz, usually a small eater, had Quail as a main course. Normally, Maz would stop here. The waiter advised of  three wonderful deserts. Before any of us had a moment to consider the options, Maz said "we'll have one of each". A gold medal, go you good thing.



Wednesday, July 2, 2014

SouthWest USA - Part 6 Durango

Sunday 27th May we drove from Chinle to Durango. Spectacular scenery paved the way. Durango, an old Colorado mining town with Victorian-era saloons is torn between its ragtime past and a cool, cutting edge future where town bikes and caffeine and farmers markets rule. 


                                                             
                                                                            Durango

We stayed at the  Strater Hotel, where the past is present in its western ambiance from the rooms to the bars. We did a self guided historical walk around town which allowed us to soak up the excitement of an old Western town. 


                                                                        Strater Hotel

Our first night was fantastic, spent in the Office Spitorium, a small intermit western bar, at the Hotel. We were entertained by Joel Rackeff, a great local singer and from the audience, "Molly", the fabulous Molly, a guest who just happened to be a singer from the Michigan band, Vox vidorra.  She was fantastic. Just a great night. 

Monday 28th May, still in Durango, we tried to get to Silverton. There was too much snow, the roads were dangerous, so we turned back. We visited train Museum as the Silverton train come into the station. 
Our final night saw us having dinner at Ken and Suzy's.



                                                          Casey Jones in control in Durango

SouthWest USA - Part 5 Canyon De Chelly

Saturday 26th May we traveled from Monument Valley to Chinle. What a day, it rained, it snowed, we had wind, sun and sleet.  Chinle may well be a town for lost aliens. It was tiny, remote and spooky. As you looked out on the horizon all you could see were electric lights which seemed to set a pattern reminiscent of a landing strip for spaceships. 
We were there to see Canyon De Chelly (pronounced Chay).


                   

                                                                   Canyon De Chelly


We were mesmerized, enthralled and excited. Percy, a local Indian who had done everything in life you could possibly think of, was our guide. He was excellent. The Canyon has been inhabited for 5000 years and shelters many old Ancestral Puebloan dwellings built into the alcoves. As the land has been eroded these dwellings are now halfway up the walls of the Canyon.


                                                             Old Ancestral Puebloan dwellings

'

                                                        More Old Ancestral Puebloan dwellings.
            These dwellings were once on the floor of the Canyon. Subsequent erosion has resulted in them now      
                                                        resting halfway up the wall of the canyon.

If the walls could talk they'd tell stories of great violence and tragedy against the Navajo Indians. In 1805, Spanish soldiers killed scores of Indians. In 1864 the US Army, led by Kit Carson drove thousands into the Canyon, starving them into surrendering and forcing them to March 300 miles - the Long Walk - to Fort Sumner in New Mexico. Four years later the Navajo returned.



                                                   Long forgotten Navajo homes, now in ruins.

Percy embodied all this history in his demeanor and the emotional telling of the stories. 

Monday, June 30, 2014

SouthWest USA - Part 4 Monument Valley

Friday 25th May was spent at Monument Valley. In the morning, 5.30am, we witnessed a spectacular sunrise from our balconies at the wonderful hotel, The View.


                                                                       The View Hotel


                                                               Sunrise over Monument Valley


                                                         
                                                             Monument Valley at Sunrise


                       After breakfast we did the Wildcat walk around the West Mitten Butte, spectacular.



                                                                West Mitten Butte

Will Cowboy, a native and local Navajo took us on a sunset drive around the valley. Like a classic movie star, Monument Valley has a face known around the world. Her fiery red spindles, sheer walled mesas and grand buttes have starred in films and commercials and have been featured in magazine ads and picture books.


                                                                       Camel Butte
This great valley is spellbinding. The landscape overwhelms, not just by its beauty, but also by its size. Monument Valley's epic beauty is heightened by the drab landscape surrounding it. One minute you're in the middle of sand, rocks and infinite sky, then suddenly you're transported to a fantasyland of crimson sandstone towers.


                                                              Totem Pole and Yei Bi Chei

The fragile pinnacles of the rock are surrounded by miles of mesas and buttes, shrubs, trees, and windblown sand all comprising the magnificent colors of the valley.


  
                                                         The Custodians of the Valley, The Navajo

SouthWest USA - Part 3 Page to Monument Valley

Thursday 24th May was our longest day on the road, 400ks. We were heading to Monument Valley via Page where we wanted to spend time in Antelope Canyon (See separate post).

On the way to Page we stopped at Cameron and had lunch at Cameron's Trading Post. This town, with no visible community, was in the middle of nowhere. However The Trading Post was enormous. It was big enough to provide entertainment and support for all the Indians at Custer's Last Stand. The Indians were successful once again, lunch was great.

 At Page, after (I) stuffed up our bookings, to fill in time before Antelope Canyon, we visited Horseshoe Bend, a wondrous example of nature's journey, and Glen Canyon Dam, an impressive American engineering feat. The dam, which straddles the Utah - Arizona border, is the custodian of the 186 mile Lake Powell with 1960 miles of empty shoreline set amid striking red rock formations, sharply cut canyons and dramatic desert scenery.



                                                                     Horseshoe Bend
                              The River wraps itself around a dramatic stone outcrop to form a perfect U.

               
                                                             The bridge to Lake Powell


 Lake Powell and Glenn Canyon Dam.
                          At 710 ft tall the dam is the USA's second highest dam, by 16ft, after Hoover Dam.

Antelope Canyon is hard to explain. Wind and water have carved sandstone into an astonishingly sensuous temple of nature where light and shadow play hide and seek. At 400 mtrs  long it's symphony of shapes and textures and a photographers dream. It was all that and more. I'm not sure about the photographs. 


                                                                       Antelope Canyon
                       Later that evening we arrived at Monument Valley to witness a spectacular sunset.


           
                                                                     Monument Valley

Wednesday, May 14, 2014

SouthWest USA - Part 2 Grand Canyon

Wednesday 23rd April  our trip took us through the spectacular Oak Canyon and onto Grand Canyon. No matter how much you read about the Grand Canyon or how many photographs you've seen, nothing really prepares you for the sight of it. It is everything, and then some, you expect it to be.


                                                          Arthur, still focused and inspirational.
                             
One of the worlds seven natural wonders, it's so startling familiar and iconic you can't  take your eyes off it.
The enormity of the Canyon is really hard to appreciate. The Canyon's immensity, the sheer intensity of light and shadow at sunrise or sunset, even its very age, scream for superlatives.



                                                               Hard to take your eyes off it.

At about two billion years old - half of the Earth's total life span. The rock at the bottom of the Canyon is some of the oldest exposed rock on the planet.


                                                    Two billion years old rock, looks relatively young.


 How do you really take it all on board, you don't! We did the South Rim, spectacular views that still left you stunned and irrelevant in nature's journey.

                                                Sunset, the view before dinner, nothing left for desert.

We dined at El Torva, the best restaurant in the village. Maureen and I dined there 36 years ago. It was still just as good.

         
                                             The final run as the Colorado River runs out of the canyon.

Tuesday, May 13, 2014

SouthWest USA - Part 1 Sedona

On Monday 21st April we flew into Phoenix, a typical big USA city, the 6th largest in the USA. There was little interest in the city as we were only overnighting and meeting with Peter & Marilyn Surtees who were our traveling partners for the trip. It was great to catch up with Arthur (Peter) and Maz as we had not seen them since September 2013. It was an easy catch up as they are great friends and even better traveling partners. 

On Tuesday 22nd April we travelled to Sedona. We avoided the freeways and went  the long way visiting Prescott, where Whisky Row had hotels lined up side by side. We lunched  at Jerome, a small village on the side of a mountain. It had been burnt down twice and rejuvenated as a tourist town, full of antiques and  arty stuff. Quaint and quirky it provided our first sighting of the red walls of Arizona. 

The afternoon saw us travel through Cottonwood and Bridgeport. The scenic and winding road, clinging to Mangus mountain and overlooking the Verde Valley, led us into Sedona. This part of the day made  sure we understood the meaning of red. It was spectacular. The red, very red walls of Arizona were everywhere. The  enormity and colour of the mountains was amazing. The trip was looking good.

                                                                                 

                                                      Our first sighting of the red walls of Arizona 

Our accommodation was at Briars Patch, a romantic patch of cottages on a River 2ks outside of town. A soft and quiet place to stay. 

Late afternoon found us at Cathedral Rock to test our photographic skills at sunset. The rock and colors generated did not disappoint us. Arthur was focused and the rest of us, inspired by Arthur, tried our hardest.


                                                               Arthur "Focused". Inspiring



                                                                     Cathedral Rock

                                                   
                                                                   Cathedral Rock a little later


The following morning Arthur and I left our women folk in the cabins. This was how the West was Won. We headed to Airport Drive to witness sunrise and see if we'd learnt any photographic skills from sunset.

Monday, April 21, 2014

On The Road Again

The Canadian Thanksgiving weekend, October 10th, a Thursday, through to Monday 14th October saw us head to Montreal and then Quebec to catch up with Bridget and Ray.

An eleven hour train ride took us from Penn Station, downtown Manhattan, to Montreal. For most of the day the train meandered along the Hudson River. What an amazing valley. It's a significant body of water boarded by quaint little villages that seem to have allowed time to pass them by. October is the time the leaves start to turn. The extensive range of colors made the River scenery all the more beautiful. The reds, oranges and yellows that flaunt their Autumn beauty are magnificent.  It was very easy to lazily sit and become engrossed by the combination of rail travel, great colour and the  calmness of water.

Our only distraction for the journey was the gastronomic delicacies  available. A glass of "Chardy" and a hot dog, a full beef hot dog, made the journey more enjoyable. There was of course the choice of ketchup or mustard to drown the hot dog.

Arriving in Montreal about 7.00pm our hotel was above the station. We had checked in and were at dinner by 7.30 for dinner. Ahhhh yes more food and drink. A fantastic meal in the "Beaver Room". It was old fashioned, traditional service and food choices. This was a great sedative ready for our am train journey to Montreal, all with out leaving the station. It was all a little decadent but necessary after a magnificent train journey.

I have just found this uncompleted story from October 2013. This was a weekend away with Bridge and Ray, in Quebec. It was a great weekend. We did a walking food tour of the city. The French influence, whilst sometimes a frustration within the city, was a great foundation for the food tour.

We stayed in the old part of town in a quaint hotel close to many small intimate  restaurants, which we had to sample. The city had enormous character and charm and was a great place to spend time with our fabulous daughter, Bridget, and our great son in law, Ray.

The Masters Augusta April 2014

Augusta - 2014 US Masters
Thursday April 10th - Sunday April 13th
Four days at the US Masters in Augusta has been one of the amazing experiences in our life.
TV can provide a dramatic close up, a view of every corner of the course and follow each shot throughout the duration of the game.
What it can not show is the emotion of the moment, the natural beauty of the course, the warmth and sincerity of the people working there, the enormity of the precision and organisation of the event and the sheer magnitude of the occasion of the world's greatest golf tournament.
We have been fortunate to have the opportunity to go to The Masters. Whilst we were excited, there were no serious expectations. We booked into the Augusta Travelodge, 2 miles from the course. The township of Augusta, 5 miles from the course, is a lonely and almost irrelevant town on the Savannah river.
We had done a significant amount of research on how to get the greatest amount of enjoyment from the tournament. Every day was an early start. We were up before 6.00am and at the gates anywhere from 7.00 am to 7.30 am each day. Crowd control was significant, calculated and effective.
Just walking through the gates for the first time you had the feeling that you were participating in something special. Not one thing was out of place. Every blade of grass was carefully manicured, every pathway spotless, all paint work with out blemish, this was before we got to the practice range. The rest of the course followed suite.
Our first stop, on day 1, was the practice range. We watched John Senden, Tom Watson, Mike Weir, Angel Cabrera, Ian Poulter, Fred Couples, Graeme McDowell and Rickie Fowler practice. Not even onto the course it was so easy to enjoy the significant skill of the golfers against the backdrop of this wonderful place. Remember we had not even got to the course.
With no expectations we decided that the first day would be spent walking the entire course to appreciate every hole, work out where the stands were and understand the location of the best viewing spots.
The course is magnificent, an exact replica of every photo and TV shot we had seen. We walked every hole. The Course has been built on 365 acres of what was previously a fruitland nursery comprising imported trees and plants from various countries. Each hole, named after particular shrub or tree, is now surrounded by the plant or tree after which it was named.
Single locations allowed you to see approach shots into various greens and the tee off for the next holes. Considerable thought had been given to the layout of the course.
Good locations were at the back of the 2nd green (Pink Dogwood), a par 5 which encouraged attempts to reach it in two. This location also provided a great view for tee off on the 3rd hole (Flowering Peach) and approach shots and putting on the 7th hole (Pampas). The green of the 5th (Magnolia) and the tee for the par 3, 6th (Juniper), provided another great location.
You could spend the day walking up and down the 10th hole (Camellia) which is hardest hole on the course. A dog leg to the left and then a long narrow green sloping right to left challenged every golfer. As you sat by the green under the trees thoughts of golf heaven came to mind.
Amen Corner which was made up of the approach shots to the 11th (White Dogwood) green, the famous par 3, 12th (Golden Bell) and the drive for the par 5, 13th (Azalea) was an easy place to spend a large amount of time. The beauty of each fairway, the depth of the magnificent flowering undergrowth aligning each fairway ensured you stopped to enjoy the plight of the worlds top 100 golfers as they fought and struggled to tame the course.
Two holes, the par 5 15th (Firethorn) and the par 3 16th (Redbud) was probably the most popular spot. The 15th tempted most players to attempt the green in two. For the unsuspecting a creek ran in front of the green and water completely surrounded the back of the green. Notwithstanding the golfing skill on hand many laid up. Bubba Watson, the eventual winner, went for it, on in two and two putted, a birdie.
The 16th, a par 3, with water all the way from tee to green had spectators, seated, lining the entire length of the hole. The ambience, the beauty, and the excitement of each shot was just amazing.
Of course there is the 18th hole. To spend time to see how each golfer finishes, particularly the last day, is wonderful.
There are some really great things about The Masters, that I've not observed at any other sporting event. You can buy "Masters" chairs for $30. These can be carried or alternatively placed anywhere on the course so that you can return and then sit on them. No one moves the chairs. Others sit on them but when you return they vacate them for you. After day one our plan was to get to the course very early, 7.00am, put our chairs as close as possible to the green on the 18th, usually 3 or 4 rows back, walk the course then eventually return to the 18th. This worked exceptionally well.
The respect for the game is significant. Every time, I mean every time, a player is about to play a shot there is deadly silence, you could hear a pin drop. There is no calling out.
The volunteers, the staff and security people are extraordinarily helpful and friendly. There are 400 volunteers who volunteer for 7 days. The turnover is about 20 a year. The waiting list is a mile long. Some have been doing it for in excess of 20 years.
Walking into the tournament a lady carrying a non "Masters" bottle of water was asked to either take the label off or drink the water. At one stage I thought that this was arrogance. However there is 80 years of golf tradition, enormous history, significant golf dramas and triumphs. All these enacted on the same course. It was not arrogance but respect for all that had gone before 2014 on the wonderful course.
From the tees it's a forgiving course, one that even the average golfer could handle and enjoy. However the depth of skill required for the second shot and the even deeper skill required for putting is what makes Augusta a hard course.
The food concessions should be the envy of every sporting event around the world.
There is no gouging, sandwiches $1.50, soft drinks $1.50 and beers $3.00. Concessions are available around the entire course, the wait is no longer than 5 minutes.
Even the toilets have their entertainment. There are ushers helping to ensure a smooth movement of people. The usher at the entrance will yell out "how many cubicles in the back nine?". The answer "4 in the back nine, send them through".
Everything is made easy, accessible and enjoyable.
There were many exciting moments, for us, the best was kept for the second last group on the last day, Matt Kucher and Jonas Blixt (Sweden). We had a great position beside the 18th green.
Matt Kucher played his second shot into the 18th. He hooked the ball and it headed for the spectators. His ball hit a spectator in the front row and then bounced into the lap of a spectator sitting two chairs from us in our row. The rule is that the spectator can not move until the player sees where the ball has landed and together with a rules umpire agree where the ball will be placed. Here was this spectator sitting alone with a ball in his crutch waiting for "Kuch". Matt was very accommodating and suggested to Rick ( the spectator) he'd play it where it landed. If Rick gritted his teeth all would be ok. A great moment.
There are many more stories that could be told. It was just spectacular. The respect for the moment, the beauty and danger of the course, the amazing support of every person there and the golf. Golf, almost secondary, was the clear winner. They are true professionals, great players all in keeping with this wonderful, wonderful event "The Masters".

Monday, February 17, 2014

New York's Winter Beauty

There's nothing like it, New York in the winter. It's beautiful. Today, Monday 17th February, President's Day, it's minus 10c to minus 15c. We have a brilliant blue cloudless sky, the suns shinning, snow all over Central Park, on top of all the buildings and along every footpath.

                                             
                                              Looking across the Hudson to New Jersey.
           

                                                     Central Park in the distance


                                                     Sunshine, Snow and a city's glow.


                                               The Freedom Tower and Statute of Liberty

Only a week before the Hudson River was iced over at the edges. Walking along the Hudson at minus 20c has an interesting feeling. Cold springs to mind. However the ice caught up amongst the pylons created a dramatic  theme.

         
                                                    Hudson River pylons caught in the ice.


                                                             Hudson River Ice


                                                         Hudson River Pylons
The other feeling of excitement is when it snows. There's something about walking in the snow, romance, a freshness that invites you outside. We recently walked to Chelsea, mid afternoon, an hours walk from our apartment. About 5.00pm it started to snow. It met all the dreams. We decided to walk back, stopping at a little French restaurant bar for a glass of red to warm our hearts. Sitting at the window watching, mesmerized by the falling snow is wonderful. To help us stay warmed we had a small bowl of portobello mushroom chips in tangy avocado dipping sauce, yum yum. After another 25 minutes walking we stopped at a tiny Vietnamese restaurant for a main meal. Its just so simple to do. Finally, yes another stop, for desert. Again watching the snow from inside and then once again outside catching a falling snow flake, wonderful.  

                                                      Snow falling in Central Park.

 
                                                    Columbus Avenue in the snow
It's very hard not to enjoy the snow. Dressed properly and outside in the park is so hard to beat. Those out there are filled with the same energy and appreciation of the moment.