Bishkek. Visit 14th November 2013 to 22nd November 2013.
After spending a week in London we headed, for the first time, to Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan. The purpose of the trip was to spend time with Patrick and Katja, look at a guesthouse they were interested in purchasing and to understand Bishkek which is now home for Patrick and Katja.
We had no idea what to expect. It is called the "Switzerland of Central Asia".
Patrick met us at the airport via taxi and 30 minutes and 60ks later we were at their apartment. The return taxi trip, including waiting time, was 1100 Som, the equivalent of US $20. The city and the country is very poor.
Our first day was spent adjusting to our arrival and walking downtown to give us a feel for the city and get some cash. It's a Visa town and there is almost no use of MasterCard. I'm sure there's a story there. On Patrick's advice I cashed US$600 which is 30,000 Som. Notwithstanding we had dinner out on at least four occasions and ordered in on another, I left town with change in my pocket. Workers are paid 500 Som or $US 10 to $4 a day. It is a poor country.
So this is Bishkek?
BIshkek
The main language is Kyrgy, of which we knew nothing, followed by Russian, of which we knew one word and a small smattering of English. As we had a small smattering of English, we were sweet.
The roads are chaos. All roads were free of lane markings. An apparent four lane road could have 6 cars abreast, 2 going south, 4 going north or any other combination that would add to 6. Pedestrian crossings were used as target practice for the drivers who would often speed up as they approached the white markings.
Our initial impression was of an extremely poor country, desperately trying to survive, using chaos as its foundation. Quick judgements should never be made.
Our second day saw us visiting Allah and Nicholi the owners of the guesthouse Patrick and Katja were hoping to purchase. It is a 5 bedroom guesthouse with a fully self contained granny flat. It has been owned by Nicholi's family since the 1960's, possibly earlier, when the Soviet Union was in control. It's in a great location, a great price and has enormous potential which Patrick and Katja will realize.
"Villa Real" Guest House
After spending an hour or so with Allah, Nicholi arrived home at 4.pm. He is a prolific artist, painting everyday, and according to Allah, selling very few. His first statement after meeting us was "where's the vodka?"
I have no idea how it happened but we left their home sometime around 8.30pm after demolishing more vodka than I thought existed. As you can imagine everyone was best friends by then. Nicholi was doing Skippy impersonations around the room and I was hugging anybody I could find. I think Allah liked me. As we left Nicholi asked how long we were staying as he would like a return performance. Fortunately we ran out of time for the return match.
Midway through the evening
Getting towards the end of the evening
We don't think there was any harm done to the negotiations. The following day was definitely a rest day. Amazingly it was an alcohol free day. In fact 4 to 5 of the days that followed trended the same way.
Within 30 minutes drive from their apartment there is a State Park which we visited on the afternoon of the day after the "Nicholi Ambush". The weekend before Patrick had ridden his bike 4 hours up hill through the snow, stayed the night, and returned the next day. He is clearly very comfortable, at ease, and embraces the mountains.
The River in the National Park
The National Park
We all and headed out of town to Karakol on the western side of Lake Issykol. The drivers are maniacs driving at ridiculous speeds down the centre of the road on shocking, sometimes non existent, roads.
The lake was backed by mountains, snow covered and impressive. The trip is a summertime frenzy with Kyrgys heading for sun soaked holidays on the shores of the lake. The villages are small, with limited or no infrastructure cluttered with chaos that is impossible to imagine.
It was the mountains that continually distracted both Patrick and Katja. Patrick knew every valley, every hill and every summit. As the afternoon sun started to sink the reflection on the snow covered mountains was wonderful.
The warmth and pleasure of the afternoon sun
After arriving at our B&B Patrick, Maureen and I decided to go for a walk around the village. The constant view of apparently poor homes and people was over ridden by their family support, the enjoyment of being with friends and sharing the moment. Not one person we observed seemed unhappy, in fact the opposite.
On the way back to our B&B Mause tripped over a speed hump, yes that's right, and fractured her right shoulder. I'd like to say that Mause was traveling too fast but that was not the case. It was dark and a clear case of "what was that?"
An evening in Karakol hospital was interesting. A building left over from Soviet days, with long dark corridors, poor lighting and antiquated equipment. Anyway after an hour or so, an x-Ray on very old, Japanese donated, equipment and US$ 45 we headed out of the hospital for a very quiet evening.
Barskoon was our next destination. This was on the eastern end of the lake, which was completely surrounded by the snow capped mountains and a great distraction from the continuous crazy drivers. Before reaching the nights accommodation we headed up a valley to some natural hot springs, a very enjoyable break. The cost is US$1.50 per person for as long as you like. It is a very poor country
Shepard's Way was where we stayed for the next couple of nights. This place is owned by Isheen and Rash, brothers in a family business of taking groups horse riding through the mountains. They are also re establishing their apple juice business after not having the necessary equipment for the last 3/4 years. The local apple growers give them 100 kilos of apples which creates 10 litres of juice. The grower gets 5 litres and Isheen can sell the remainder.
Shepard's Way
They were wonderful people and our time with them was very enjoyable. There is no doubt that judgements can only be made when you have all the facts. They were considered, thoughtful and caring in everything they did. Every morning we got up to the backdrop of snow covered mountains basking in the morning sun.
Heading back to Bishkek we visited an amazing rock formation and then, within 30 minutes, headed full on into a snow storm. You'd think this would slow the driving frenzy. There was a slight slowing but chaos was still the consistent foundation for driving on the road. Bishkek in full snow was great, romantic and beautiful.
Bishkek's Monument Valley
Romantic Bishkek
During our stay in and out of Bishkek there were some great observations that are never available when you first arrive.
It's all about the people. As our time went on we met some wonderfully warm, caring and intelligent people. As you become more aware of your surroundings the chaos seems to lessen. Underneath the frenzy there is some routine. Patrick, as does Katja, but more so Patrick, loves the mountains. He respects them, understands them and wants to spend time in them.
They clearly love each other very much.
Whilst, I would never have thought it, Patrick and Katja have done an enormous amount of work over the last 18 months, in considering the establishment of a guesthouse and, for Patrick, a high adventure tourist business.
Every person we met, without exception and without encouragement, spoke highly of Patrick and Katja. They spoke of the respect they have for them, their work ethic and their belief that they can be successful. They both have recognition within the city within their industries.
It is a very poor city and country. The majority of people are simple and lazy in most of their expectations. Bishkek is changing daily. In the short space of time we were there a number of positive changes were made to various aspects of legislation impacting their plans.
I'm not sure it's a wild frontier. It is however a frontier that presents an opportunity. From what we learnt in spending time with Patrick and Katja, from talking with their advisors and listening to their business associates, the timing is right and it's an opportunity worth following.
