Bishkek

Bishkek. Visit 14th November 2013 to 22nd November 2013. 

After spending a week in London we headed, for the first time, to Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan.  The purpose of the trip was to spend time with Patrick and Katja, look at a guesthouse they were interested in purchasing and to understand Bishkek which is now home for Patrick and Katja. 

We had no idea what to expect. It is called the  "Switzerland of Central Asia".

Patrick met us at the airport via taxi and 30 minutes and 60ks later we were at their apartment. The return taxi trip, including waiting time, was 1100 Som, the equivalent of US $20. The city and the country is very poor. 

Our first day was spent adjusting to our arrival and walking downtown to give us a feel for the city and get some cash. It's a Visa town and there is almost no use of MasterCard. I'm sure there's a story there. On Patrick's advice I cashed US$600 which is 30,000 Som. Notwithstanding we had dinner out on at least four occasions and ordered in on another, I left town with change in my pocket. Workers are paid 500 Som or $US 10 to $4 a day. It is a poor country. 

                                                             So this is Bishkek?

                                                                                BIshkek

The main language is Kyrgy, of which we knew nothing, followed by Russian, of which we knew one word and a small smattering of English. As we had a small smattering of English, we were sweet. 

The roads are chaos. All roads were free of lane markings. An apparent four lane road could have 6 cars abreast, 2 going south, 4 going north or any other combination that would add to 6. Pedestrian crossings were used as target practice for the drivers who would often speed up as they approached the white markings. 

Our initial impression was of an extremely poor country, desperately trying to survive, using chaos as its foundation.  Quick judgements should never be made. 

Our second day saw us visiting Allah and Nicholi the owners of the guesthouse Patrick and Katja were hoping to purchase. It is a 5 bedroom guesthouse with a fully self contained granny flat. It has been owned by Nicholi's family since the 1960's, possibly earlier,  when the Soviet Union was in control. It's in a great location, a great price and has enormous potential which Patrick and Katja  will realize. 

                                       

                                                                 "Villa Real" Guest House

After spending an hour or so with Allah, Nicholi  arrived home at 4.pm. He is a prolific artist, painting everyday, and according to Allah, selling very few. His first statement after meeting us was "where's the vodka?"

I have no idea how it happened but we left their home sometime around 8.30pm after demolishing more vodka than I thought existed. As you can imagine everyone was best friends by then. Nicholi was doing Skippy impersonations around the room and I was hugging anybody I could find. I think Allah liked me. As we left Nicholi asked how long we were staying as he would like a return performance. Fortunately we ran out of time for the return match. 

                                                            Midway through the evening

                                                           Getting towards the end of the evening

We don't think there was any harm done to the negotiations. The following day was definitely  a rest day. Amazingly it was an alcohol free day. In fact 4 to 5 of the days that followed trended the same way. 

Within 30 minutes drive from their apartment there is a State Park which we visited on the afternoon of the day after the "Nicholi Ambush". The weekend before Patrick had ridden his bike 4 hours up hill through the snow, stayed the night, and returned the next day. He is clearly very comfortable, at ease, and embraces the  mountains. 

                                                    The River in the National Park

                                                                         The National Park

We all and headed out of town to Karakol on the western side of Lake Issykol. The drivers are maniacs driving at ridiculous speeds down the centre of the road on shocking, sometimes non existent, roads. 

The lake was backed by mountains, snow covered and impressive. The trip is a summertime frenzy with Kyrgys heading for sun soaked holidays on the shores of the lake. The villages are small, with limited or no infrastructure cluttered with chaos that is impossible to imagine. 

It was the mountains that continually distracted both Patrick and Katja. Patrick knew every valley, every hill and every summit. As the afternoon sun started to sink the reflection on the snow covered mountains was wonderful. 

                                                    The warmth and pleasure of the afternoon sun

After arriving at our B&B Patrick, Maureen and I decided to go for a walk around the village. The constant view of apparently poor homes and people was over ridden by their family support, the enjoyment of being with friends and sharing the moment. Not one person we observed seemed unhappy, in fact the opposite. 

On the way back to our B&B Mause tripped over a speed hump, yes that's right, and fractured her right shoulder. I'd like to say that Mause  was traveling too fast but that was not the case. It was dark and a clear case of "what was that?"

An evening in Karakol hospital was interesting. A building left over from Soviet days, with long dark corridors, poor lighting and antiquated equipment. Anyway after an hour or so, an x-Ray on very old, Japanese donated, equipment and US$ 45 we headed out of the hospital for a very quiet evening. 

Barskoon was our next destination. This was on the eastern end of the lake, which was completely surrounded by the snow capped mountains and a great distraction from the continuous crazy drivers. Before reaching the nights accommodation we headed up a valley to some natural hot springs, a very enjoyable break. The cost is US$1.50 per person for as long as you like. It is a very poor country 

Shepard's Way was where we stayed for the next couple of nights. This place is owned by Isheen and Rash, brothers in a family business of taking groups horse riding through the mountains. They are also re establishing their apple juice business after not having the necessary equipment for the last 3/4 years. The local apple growers give them 100 kilos of apples which creates 10 litres of juice. The grower gets 5 litres and Isheen can sell the remainder. 

                                                                        Shepard's Way 

They were wonderful people and our time with them was very enjoyable. There is no doubt that judgements can only be made when you have all the facts. They were considered, thoughtful and caring in everything they did. Every morning we got up to the backdrop of snow covered mountains basking in the morning sun.

Heading back to Bishkek we visited an amazing rock formation and then, within 30 minutes, headed full on into a snow storm. You'd think this would slow the driving frenzy. There was a slight slowing but chaos was still the consistent foundation for driving on the road. Bishkek in full snow was great, romantic and beautiful. 

                                                         Bishkek's Monument Valley

                                                                     Romantic Bishkek

During our stay in and out of Bishkek there were some great observations that are never available when you first arrive. 

It's all about the people. As our time went on we met some wonderfully warm, caring and intelligent people. As you become more aware of your surroundings the chaos seems to lessen. Underneath the frenzy there is some routine. Patrick, as does Katja, but more so Patrick, loves the mountains. He respects them, understands them and wants to spend time in them. 

They clearly love each other very much. 

Whilst, I would never have thought it, Patrick and Katja have done an enormous amount of work over the last 18 months, in considering the establishment of a guesthouse and, for Patrick, a high adventure tourist business. 

Every person we met, without exception and without encouragement,  spoke highly of Patrick and Katja. They spoke of the respect they have for them, their work ethic and their belief that they can be successful. They both have recognition within the city within their industries. 

It is a very poor city and country. The majority of people are simple and lazy in most of their expectations. Bishkek is changing daily. In the short space of time we were there a number of positive changes were made to various aspects of legislation impacting their plans. 

I'm not sure it's a wild frontier. It is however a frontier that presents an opportunity. From what we learnt in spending time with Patrick and Katja, from talking with their advisors and listening to their business associates, the timing is right and it's an opportunity worth following. 

New York's Longest Day 21st June 2013

Today, 21 June 2013, is the longest day of the year for New York. It is celebrated by Make Music New York. There are 100d's of musical events around the city. They are all free. The hardest thing to do is to decide what to see. After spending 3 hours madly studying the form  we have decided on four, yes only four, events to experience. Starting at Central Park, we were then to go to Cornelia Street, then to West 68 and finishing in Hells Kitchen.

7.30am saw us at Central Park Lake in Central Park to experience TILT Brass performing "Music for Wilderness Lake" Three groups of Trombone Players surrounded the lake and were led by a conductor using flag signals to lead the music. In the stillness of the morning it was magnificent.

The TILT Brass performing "Music for Wilderness Lake"

The stillness of the morning reflects New York City on Central Park Lake. 

Our next point of interest was Cornelia Street, downtown. There was the world premiere of Jed Distler's Broken Record, a piece composed for 175 battery powered Yamaha keyboards and one acoustic grand piano. Players included luminaries of the piano world, local amateur pianists, school children and city officials. The performance set a new Guinness Book record for the world's largest keyboard ensemble.

A group of the 175 players 

It's done, 175 players creating a new Guinness Book of Record
  for  the largest keyboard ensemble.

 During the course of our time there young players would come, play and sing. The amount of talent  that's walking the streets waiting for somewhere to play is significant. Cornelia Street was their playground for the day.

This is Christopher McGinnis, a 15 year old school boy, who already has his own fan club. 

A bike rider dropped in to play a couple of tunes and got the young lady in pink dancing.

La Boite en Bois. our local and favourite French Restaurant on West 68 was the next stop. The Privia Piano Bar started in Harlem and at each stop from the back of a pick up truck Nate Buccieri plays live music on a keyboard to accompany singers on the side walk. 

Nate doing his thing.

When the truck arrived at our stop we were fortunate enough the find the lady chairperson of the New York Chamber of Commerce on hand to belt out a few tunes. Her enormous jazz and gospel voice had the street rocking in no time. We could only imagine the board meetings of the NYC Chamber of Commerce being very upbeat.

The Lady Chairperson.


Our initial plan was to head to Hell's Kitchen to experience more Jazz and Gospel singing. That was until we met Gino, the owner of La Boîte en Bois. Sitting on the steps of West 68 we got to know Gino, the Italian owner of a French restaurant. We learnt about, the restaurant, his life in New York and  his  four daughters, a doctor, two in finance and one in marketing. All still single. After a couple of Prosecco  and French Chardonnay our trip to Hells Kitchen fell into disarray and we stayed on the steps and listened to the Greg Smith Group. From the Bronx, they played Hall & Oates meets Van Halen. There will be a visit to the Bronx to continue our new friendship. At 8.00pm we headed home via Ronda's for a quiet meal and reflection on the day. It was indeed the longest day for New York and its visitors. 

Spring has arrived

There is nothing as wonderful as spring in New York. It arrived with force this weekend. The temperatures were 18/19 degrees celsius, not a cloud in the sky.

     
                           The New York skyline from Jackie Onassis Reservoir in Central Park

Central Park was overloaded with people. There was very little room, every available blade of grass was being used, the sun worshippers had arrived. Blossoms appear for two weeks and then disappear. Their presence provides tranquility and beauty forcing New York's apartment dwellers to increase the already high energy levels that exist.

This is the time for man's greatest friend to help everyone share the extraordinary atmosphere of Central Park.

A two week splendor that cannot be missed. The sun and flowers change the attitude of an entire city.

Beauty has many forms. Not the least is the ability to snap up a rare delicacy as you leave the park.

                What a wonderful city.

Outside New York

Fantastic as New York is there's a need to enjoy what other cities have to offer. Late January and early February saw us in London enjoying a recent significant dump of snow. Hyde Park covered in snow is worth experiencing. Early morning walks through the Park were rewarded with no queue for coffee and scrambled eggs at the cafe next to the Memorial for Diana, Princess of Wales.

London does not have the vibrancy or energy of New York. It does have extraordinary experiences within two hours drive of the city.  We headed for The New Forest, South West of London, an area, encompassing Brockenhurst, Lymington and Beaulieu.

The township of Beaulieu

The New Forest has over 200 km of bike riding trails, great Trout fishing and extensive walking trails.  Horses run wild so it's a wonderful playground. Thank god the snow and rain had made  riding and walking difficult and trout fishing is apparently a summer sport. We were restricted to enjoying the environs of the wonderful hotel, "The Pig". Thoroughly recommended. 

Lord Montagu of Beaulieu owns the town of Beaulieu and the surrounding 7000 acres. His grandfather was given ownership of the land and all on it as a wedding present. The Estate which  is home for Beaulieu Abbey, the Palace House and Gardens also houses the National Motor Museum. 

Lord Montagu's "Home"

The National Motor Museum houses over 250 motor vehicles reflecting the history of motor cars in Britain. It has the worlds largest official collection of original James Bond vehicles. There's even more. The Museum offers an experience in the "World of Top Gear". See actual cars, or what's left of them, from their most ambitious challenges. 

Motoring History

An early Man Cave. 

Our UK experience was finished with an illegal drive through the grounds of Downton Abbey. The grounds on which Highclere Castle, the real name, rest, border a property owned by Chris and Clare Berry, friends of Jimmy and Tig Nathan. Chris is a master designer of extraordinary tables. View some of his handy work on berrydesign.co.uk. Chris and Clare were kind enough to have us for lunch which finished with an  intermit drive through the grounds of the Abbey, or should that be castle?   

Business as Usual

New York has had Sandy. A horrific storm causing US$50B of damage. In some places it will take years to fix. In other areas, just months. Restaurants and retailers in some locations will be out of business for some months, perhaps not ever opening again.

Somehow the city just keeps going. Winter is coming, in fact it has arrived. Sandy was followed by a blizzard and the commencement of winter. The morning starts at 3 degrees and, on a good day, gets to 8/9 degrees.

I am sure that other cities are the same as New York. Perhaps we've had an opportunity to slow down and observe. It just keeps going. Testament to that is this weekend.

Friday morning a couple of meetings. The afternoon allowed some time for exercise before the evening in Greenwich Village. We found a restaurant in MacDougal street, Rouge et Blanc. What a find. It was fantastic. We had walked passed it many times but never ventured over the door step. A French Asian influence with amazing ambiance and wonderful tapas. Fried brussels sprouts, crispy pork belly, salmon, rabbit stew and wild mushrooms. Of course the odd glass of red wine to help.

This was followed by a play, Falling, in the Minetta Theatre which is off Broadway and through Club Free Time the princely sum of $5 a seat. This was a true story about the impact of Autisim on a family. It was very confronting but allowed us to discuss the issues as we called into the local wine bar for a glass of wine and cheese before finally heading home.

Saturday morning commenced with a bike ride down by the Hudson River, through Battery Park, the Seaport Historic District then over the Williamsburg Bridge to Brooklyn.  Bedford Street is very similar  to King St,Newtown so we were right at home in lycra and sunnies. The return ride through the centre of New York was rewarded with the excitement of Xmas and lunchtime crowds filling the street.


Late afternoon saw us at the pictures to see "Lincoln" the newest movie to hit the theaters. A great show  and well recommended. It portrays a major part of American history and further confirms that politics, irrespective of the era, is a dirty game. Fortunately just nearby there was a little restaurant with more tapas, spinach, mushrooms, meatballs and cauliflower.

Sunday morning has seen a walk around Central Park followed by coffee with friends. This evening presents us with another play, a comedy, from Club Free Time at $4 a seat.

New York City just keeps on going. There are always options. We just need to maintain the energy to embrace what is on offer.

New York Post Sandy

We were fortunate to be in Australia when Sandy struck. Arriving back on the Friday, 3 days after Sandy had done her stuff. New York was a ghost town. Lower New York was still without power. People had moved out of town to stay with relatives and friends. Those restaurants and pubs that were open had only just got their  power back. It was a great opportunity to get diner at those restaurants that normally have a  long que.

                                         
                                               Work equipment out the front of our building

                                                              Our Building


One of the great disappointments of Sandy was the cancelation of the New York Marathon. A decision that was made on the Friday evening before the race was to commence. New york was full of many gaunt looking people wondering what to do. Nevertheless many ran 2/4 times around Central Park as a substitute. Somehow Damien didn't think it was the same so declined the excitement.

                                                    A cold start in the morning
             

                                             The drinks will definitely be cold.

A damage bill of $50b. So that Sandy was not the only game in town the weather gods brought a snow blizzard to town. It lasted two days. Since then the sun has shone and beautiful weather has prevailed.

A bike ride downtown around the South Ferry piers revealed significant water damage. Those of you that have ridden with us will remember "Jacks"one of the few great coffee stops in town.  The entrance to the shop is 2/3 feet above the footpath. Talking to the girls that work there they indicated that the water had got to 3ft above the floor of the shop. This is a total of 5/6 feet above the footpath.

Many of the shops are boarded up and it will take months before they are fixed. Part of the seawall for the East River is closed until further notice. Trees, lamp posts have been knocked over by the strength of the water and wind. Central Park is coming back together, slowly. There are piles of rubbish waiting for collection. Some of the streets are still waiting to haver their garbage collected.

The one constants in New York is that people just keep on keeping on. That's exactly what has happened. People have just got up and carried on regardless.

New York Christmas

Christmas is here. Every building has a huge Xmas tree in it's foyer. Almost every tree on the street has lights up through their branches. The Rockerfeller Centre has it's famous Xmas tree, ice skating, toy soldiers and fairy lights.

The Christmas tree from Rockerfeller Centre supported by the Toy Soldier. The ice skating is going well in Central Park and Bryant Park.

The Cartier Building on Fifth Avenue 

Ice Skating at Bryant Park

More Ice Skating at Bryant Park 

You may think that all we've done is wander around New York looking at bright Xmas lights. Not so.

We have enjoyed the celebrations on Columbus Circle that heralded the opening of many Xmas stalls around the entrance of Central Park. Watching the New York Philharmonic Orchestra and Choir rehearse Handel's Messiah. An evening with Hugh Jackman got Maureen excited and definitely left me in second place. He is a wonderful entertainer. A further night with the Rat Pack. Well perhaps great impersonations of Frank Sinartra, Dean Martin and Sammy Davis Jnr.

This has been randomly sprinkled with diner out, lunch out, breakfast out and runs around Central Park. It's quite invigorating to run in temperatures of -2 degrees. There is not much chance of over heating.

The city is alive with an enormous energy. There is an unmistakable excitement on every street. The people are generous with their best wishes for a great holiday. We have had a chance to share this with Jimmy and Tiggy Nathan. Followed by Jane Lane-Mullins her daughter Andrea and a very close friend Helen McCarthy.

In the middle of all this Apple has opened their largest shop in the world. Where else but Grand Central.

The Apple Store

                             The view from the store.









The kids arrives in a couple of days so the speed of the journey will quicken.  Unfortunately Damien will not be able to make it. Notwithstanding we look forward to sharing New York with each of them especially Leo.